How to Fix a Leaky Faucet Yourself Without Calling a Plumber

By Austin Little

Most drippy faucets come down to one worn part: a washer, an O-ring, a cartridge, or a seal. Shut off the water, figure out which kind of faucet you have, take it apart carefully, and bring the old part to the store. Here's the full walk-through, plus when to stop and call a plumber.

AI disclosure. This page was drafted with AI assistance and edited for Apiary. We don't invent quotes, stats, people, or events. If something looks off, tell Austin — that's the point of a living hive.

Here's the short answer:

• A dripping faucet is usually a worn-out part inside, not a broken faucet. The fix is often a few dollars in parts and an hour or two of careful work.
• First, shut off the water at the little valves under the sink, and open the faucet to drain pressure.
• Figure out your faucet type: compression (two handles you twist until tight), cartridge, ball, or ceramic disc. Each has a different part that wears out.
• Take pictures as you go, lay parts out in order, and bring the old part to the hardware store to match it.
• Call a plumber if the shutoff valves won't close or start leaking, if water is leaking under the sink or into the cabinet, if parts are corroded solid, or if you just don't feel sure.

Let's go through it step by step.

Why fix a drip at all?

A slow drip seems harmless. But it adds up:

• Water waste. The U.S.
• Your water bill, and if it's the hot side, your water heating bill.
• Stains and mineral buildup in the sink, especially with hard water.
• Noise. That drip at 2 a.m. is real.
• It gets worse. Worn seals usually don't heal themselves.

The good news: this is one of the most beginner-friendly plumbing jobs there is. It's mostly patience and taking things apart in order.

First, figure out what kind of leak you have

Not every leak is the same leak. Look closely.

• Water drips from the spout when the faucet is off. Classic. Usually a worn washer, seat, cartridge, or seal inside the valve.
• Water leaks around the base of the handle or spout when it's on. Often a worn O-ring.
• Water is pooling under the sink, inside the cabinet. That's a different problem: a supply line, a connection, the drain, or the faucet body itself. See the "call a pro" section, and check this carefully before assuming it's a simple drip.
• The sprayer or pull-down hose leaks. Often the hose, the hose connection, or the spray head, not the main faucet valve.

This guide focuses on the first two, the drips and handle leaks.

The four main faucet types

Knowing your type saves a lot of guessing. If you can find the brand name (often on the handle, base, or spout), you can usually look up the exact model and parts on the manufacturer's website, along with diagrams.

1. Compression faucets

• Two handles (one hot, one cold).
• You twist the handles and they get tighter as you close them, until they stop with some resistance.
• Common in older homes and utility sinks.
• Inside: a stem with a rubber washer on the bottom that presses down on a seat. When the washer wears out, it can't seal and water drips.

2. Cartridge faucets

• Can be one handle or two handles.
• One-handle versions often move up and down for flow and side to side for temperature.
• Two-handle cartridge faucets turn smoothly and stop without the "squish" of a compression faucet.
• Inside: a cartridge, a cylinder that controls flow. Worn cartridges or their O-rings cause drips.

3. Ball faucets

• One handle that rotates around on top of a dome-shaped cap.
• Common in kitchens. Some brands are well known for this design.
• Inside: a ball with holes, plus rubber seats and springs that press against it. Worn seats and springs are the usual culprits.

4. Ceramic disc faucets

• Often one handle on a wide cylinder-shaped body, moving up and down and side to side.
• Inside: two ceramic discs slide against each other to control water. The discs themselves are tough, but the rubber seals under them can wear or get gunked with mineral deposits.

Don't panic if you can't tell yet. Once you get the handle off, it usually becomes obvious.

Tools and supplies

You probably have most of these:

• Adjustable wrench (or two).
• Screwdrivers: flathead and Phillips.
• Hex keys (Allen wrenches). Many single-handle faucets have a tiny set screw.
• Needle-nose pliers.
• Old towel or rag, plus a small bowl or egg carton for parts.
• Painter's tape to wrap wrench jaws so you don't scratch chrome finishes.
• Plumber's grease (silicone-based, made for faucets) for O-rings and seals.
• White vinegar and an old toothbrush for mineral buildup.
• Flashlight.
• Your phone, for photos.

Possibly:

• Replacement parts (washers, O-rings, cartridge, seats and springs, or a repair kit) — buy after you take the old ones out.
• Seat wrench (for removing seats in compression faucets).
• Handle puller, if a handle is stuck on.
• Penetrating oil, for stubborn screws (use sparingly, wipe up after).

Before you start: the safety and prep steps

Step 1: Shut off the water

Look under the sink. You should see two small valves, called shutoff valves or stop valves, on the pipes that feed the faucet (one hot, one cold).

1. Turn each valve clockwise until it stops. Don't force it.
2. Turn the faucet on, both hot and cold, to drain the remaining water and pressure. A little water will come out, then it should stop.

If the valves won't turn, or they leak when you turn them, stop. Old valves can seize or break. Forcing them can cause a bigger leak than the one you're fixing. At that point, you'll need to shut off water to the whole house at the main shutoff, or call a plumber. Knowing where your main water shutoff is is good practice anyway.

If there are no shutoff valves under your sink, you'll need to use the main shutoff. That's also a sign to consider having a plumber add shutoff valves while they're at it.

Step 2: Protect the drain

Close the sink stopper or stuff a rag in the drain. Tiny screws and springs love to escape down drains, and fishing them out is miserable.

Step 3: Lay down a towel

Put a towel in the sink basin to cushion dropped tools and catch small parts.

Step 4: Take a "before" photo

Snap a few photos of the faucet from different angles. You'll take more at each stage as you disassemble.

How to fix a compression faucet (two handles that tighten)

Figure out which side is dripping

Feel the drip: is it hot or cold? Or turn off one shutoff valve at a time and see which stops the drip. You may only need to repair one side, though many people do both while they're in there.

Steps

1. Remove the handle. Pry off the decorative cap on top (often marked H or C) with a flathead screwdriver or your fingernail. Unscrew the screw underneath. Lift the handle off. If it's stuck, wiggle it gently, or use a handle puller.
2. Remove the stem. Use an adjustable wrench (with tape on the jaws) to loosen the packing nut or hex nut, then unscrew the stem. Lay parts out in order.
3. Inspect the washer. At the bottom of the stem is a rubber washer, held by a small brass screw. If it's flattened, cracked, grooved, or hard, that's your drip.
4. Check the O-ring. Further up the stem, an O-ring seals around the stem. If water leaked around the handle, this is likely the issue.
5. Inspect the seat. Look down into the faucet body with a flashlight. The seat is the metal ring the washer presses against. If it's rough, pitted, or grooved, a new washer won't seal well. You can often remove it with a seat wrench and replace it, or use a seat dressing tool to smooth it. If it's stuck or not removable, that may be the point to call a pro.
6. Get matching parts. Take the stem, washer, and O-ring (and seat, if removed) to a hardware store. Washers and O-rings come in many sizes. Matching by eye at the store is easiest.
7. Replace the washer and O-ring. Use the same type of screw to hold the new washer. Coat the new O-ring lightly with plumber's grease.
8. Reassemble in reverse order. Thread the stem back in, snug the nut (don't crank on it), and reattach the handle.

How to fix a cartridge faucet

Steps

1. Remove the handle. Look for a small cap or set screw. On many one-handle faucets, the set screw is under or behind the handle and takes a hex key. Loosen it and lift off the handle.
2. Remove any decorative cap or dome over the cartridge.
3. Find the retaining clip or nut. Many cartridges are held by a U-shaped clip or a threaded nut. Take a photo first. Remove the clip with needle-nose pliers, or loosen the nut with a wrench.
4. Note the cartridge's orientation. Before you pull it, notice which way it's facing. Many cartridges have a tab or marking. If you reinstall it backward, your hot and cold will be swapped. Take a photo.
5. Pull the cartridge straight up. Some come out easily. Stubborn ones may need a special cartridge puller tool, often available for specific brands.
6. Inspect and replace. You can sometimes replace only the O-rings on the cartridge. But if the cartridge is worn or cracked, replace the whole thing. Bring the old one to the store or look up your faucet's model number. Cartridges are usually brand- and model-specific.
7. Clean the faucet body. Wipe out the housing. If there's mineral buildup, gently clean with a cloth dampened with white vinegar.
8. Install the new cartridge in the same orientation as the old one, lightly greasing O-rings if the instructions say so. Replace the clip or nut, cap, and handle.

How to fix a ball faucet

Ball faucets have more little parts. Go slow and photograph everything.

Steps

1. Remove the handle. Loosen the set screw (usually with a hex key) and lift it off.
2. Remove the cap and collar. You may need to unscrew a cap, sometimes with a special tool or with tape-wrapped pliers.
3. Remove the cam and ball. Lift out the cam assembly and the ball. Note how they sit.
4. Find the seats and springs. Down in the faucet body, you'll see two small rubber seats sitting on springs. Pull them out with needle-nose pliers or a small screwdriver. These are usually the cause of the drip.
5. Check the O-rings around the faucet body if you had leaks around the spout. To get to them, you might need to remove the spout by lifting and twisting it.
6. Buy a repair kit. Many brands sell ball faucet repair kits with seats, springs, O-rings, and sometimes a new ball and cam. Matching the brand is important.
7. Install new seats and springs, spring first, then seat, pressing them into place.
8. Reassemble. Put the ball back so its pin slots in the right place, then the cam, the cap, and the handle. Snug, not cranked.

How to fix a ceramic disc faucet

Steps

1. Remove the handle. Usually via a set screw under the handle or under a decorative cap.
2. Remove the escutcheon cap (the decorative cover over the cartridge).
3. Unscrew the disc cartridge mounting screws and lift out the cartridge.
4. Inspect the rubber seals on the bottom of the cartridge. If they're worn or crusted with mineral deposits, clean or replace them.
5. Clean the cartridge and openings. Soak seals and parts in white vinegar if mineral buildup is heavy, then rinse.
6. Check the ceramic discs. If they're cracked or chipped, you'll need a new cartridge.
7. Reassemble in reverse order.

Turn the water back on slowly with a ceramic disc faucet: open the faucet handle partway first, then slowly open the shutoff valves.

Turning the water back on and testing

1. Make sure the faucet is in the "on" position (partly open). That lets trapped air escape.
2. Slowly open the shutoff valves under the sink, counterclockwise.
3. Let water run for a bit. Expect some sputtering as air comes out.
4. Turn the faucet off and watch the spout. Is it dry?
5. Check under the sink for any new leaks at the valves or connections.
6. Check around the handle while running water.
7. Watch it over the next day. A slow drip may take time to show.

If it still drips

• Wrong part. Washers and O-rings that are "almost" the right size don't seal. Double-check.
• Seat damage. On compression faucets, a rough seat causes drips even with a new washer.
• Cartridge installed backward, or not seated fully.
• Debris. A bit of grit or mineral deposit can keep seals from closing.
• Over-tightening. Cranking nuts can squash seals or crack parts.

Cleaning up the aerator while you're there

The aerator is the little screen at the tip of the spout. It's not usually the source of a drip, but if your water flow is weak or sputtery, unscrew it (by hand or with tape-wrapped pliers), rinse out debris, soak in vinegar if crusty, and screw it back in.

Repair or replace the whole faucet?

Sometimes the smart answer is a new faucet. Consider replacing if:

• The faucet is very old, corroded, or cracked.
• Parts aren't available for your model.
• You've fixed it multiple times recently.
• You want a different style or features anyway.
• Repair parts cost close to what a basic new faucet costs.

Replacing a faucet is a bigger DIY project. It means working under the sink, often in awkward positions, disconnecting supply lines, and sometimes dealing with stuck mounting nuts. It's doable for a confident DIYer. If you're unsure, it's a common, reasonably priced plumber job.

When to call a plumber

Do-it-yourself is great until it isn't. Call a licensed plumber when:

• Shutoff valves won't close, are stuck, or leak when you turn them.
• There are no shutoff valves and you don't know where the main shutoff is or can't get it to work.
• You see water damage, soft cabinet floors, or mold under the sink. That's a bigger leak somewhere.
• The leak is from the faucet body, supply lines, or drain, not a simple drip.
• Parts are corroded or seized and won't come apart without heavy force.
• The faucet body is cracked.
• You have older galvanized or unusual piping, or anything looks fragile.
• You've tried the repair and it still leaks.
• You're renting. Check with your landlord first.

A plumber's visit costs money, but it's far cheaper than water damage behind a cabinet.

A note on safety

• Don't use a lot of force on old pipes or valves. They can snap.
• Hot water lines carry hot water. Let them cool and drain before working on them.
• Keep electrical things (like garbage disposal wiring or outlets under the sink) dry. If water is near electrical connections, turn off power to that circuit at the breaker before working, or call a pro.
• If you have any doubt, stop and call.

Saving money on parts

• Look for the brand and model.
• Bring the old part to the store. A good hardware store employee can often match it.
• Universal kits exist for washers and O-rings on compression faucets, but brand-specific parts are usually needed for cartridges and ball faucets.

Frequently asked questions

How long does it take to fix a leaky faucet?

For a first-timer, plan on an hour or two, plus a trip to the store for parts. With experience, many repairs take under an hour.

Do I need to turn off the water to the whole house?

Usually not. The shutoff valves under the sink control just that faucet. Use the main shutoff only if there are no local valves or they don't work.

Why does my faucet drip only after I use hot water?

Heat makes rubber parts expand and contract, which can show up worn seals. The hot side's washer, seat, or cartridge is likely worn.

Can I just tighten the handle harder to stop the drip?

That might stop it for a little while on a compression faucet, but it squashes the washer and wears it out faster. On other types, overtightening can damage parts. Fix the worn part instead.

What's plumber's grease, and do I need it?

It's a waterproof grease, usually silicone-based, that helps O-rings and seals slide into place and seal well. Use a small amount on rubber parts when reassembling. Avoid petroleum jelly, which can damage some rubber.

My faucet is leaking from underneath the sink. Is that the same fix?

No. Leaks under the sink come from supply lines, connections, the faucet body, or the drain. Tighten connections gently if you're comfortable, but persistent leaks or water damage are a good reason to call a plumber.

Can I use thread tape on faucet parts?

Thread tape is for some threaded pipe connections, not for O-rings, washers, or cartridges. Follow the parts manufacturer's instructions.

The takeaway

A dripping faucet usually means one small, worn-out part. Shut off the water under the sink, plug the drain, figure out whether you have a compression, cartridge, ball, or ceramic disc faucet, and take it apart slowly with your phone camera rolling. Bring the old part to the store, swap it, reassemble in reverse order, and turn the water back on slowly.

Know your limits. If valves won't close, if the leak is under the sink, if parts are corroded solid, or if anything feels wrong, call a plumber. A small bill now beats a soggy cabinet later.

If something in this guide doesn't match what you see under your sink, check your faucet maker's instructions. And if something here looks off, tell Austin.